1.
Choosing the wood. This is important, as I try to get wood with the same grain
and color throughout. This helps to insure that the stain and finish is absorbed
equally. I use one piece of wood when I can. |
2.
Cut the wood into strips a little larger than the size of your photo frame (rip
saw the width and height of moulding). |
 
3.
Using both jointer and planer, the wood strips have to be made square and all
the same exact size. Without this step any decorative edges will not line
up in the finished picture frame. As little as a 1/64" difference will
show up in the finished frame.
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4.
It is at this point that the decorative edges and rabbet are put on with a
router/shaper and the jointer. This is a critical step in that all edges
have to, once more, be exact in size and shape. All errors in these first
crucial steps of making your frame are accumulative. A difference in step
3 will make a larger difference here.
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5. First rough sanding of all surfaces.
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6. Rough cut the moulding to length and cut the miters.
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7. Sand all miter joints to the same exact angles and also bring the
moulding to the proper finished lengths. If an angle is even 1/2
degree off (or less) the corners will not meet properly, and you will have a
weak joint and a gap in the joints, 1/64th of an inch difference in lengths will
result in a gap of 1/32". If you assemble with this much of a difference your
frame will not be truly square and also have weak corners.
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8. Assemble the frames by gluing and clamping and allow to dry, making
sure that all corners and decorative edges meet correctly. A strap clamp works
best for this.
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9. Underpin the backs with vee nails.
Underpinning is the method in which fasteners
are put in the back side of the frame. They are invisible when
viewed from the front or sides. Not like some manufacturers who use brads
in the sides or staples in the back. Vee nails are specially shaped joint
fasteners that pull and hold the joints tightly together, combined with high
strength wood glue, this results in extremely strong joints. These are not
like the staples used by many manufacturers of cheaper frames. Lacking Vee nails
good wood glue will hold as long as you have smooth clean joints to begin
with.
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10. Do a second sanding and remove all dust
using a tack cloth. I never use steel wool for this process.
Using steel wool can leave behind minute traces of steel which can, over
time, corrode and show up as "black specks" - UGH!
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11. Apply first coat of finish/stain and let dry overnight. Some woods
(maple and pine in particular) need to be pretreated with pre-conditioner first.
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12. Check for any inconsistencies in the finish. This can range from
a nick or dent in the wood (easier to see after wood has some stain on it), to
blotchy or uneven stain. A dent in the wood can be minimized, or taken out
completely, by wetting a rag and steaming the spot with a hot iron.
NEVER sand a stained piece of wood, unless you sand back down to bare
wood you will have a harder time getting
an even colored stain if you do.
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13. Apply a second or more coats of stain (depends on how dark and deep
the stain is to be).
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14. Remove all dust using a tack cloth and apply the first top coat of polyurethane.
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15. Check over entire frame for any defects in the top coat of finish.
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16.
Finish sand very lightly (one swipe) with 320 grit or finer sandpaper, and
remove all dust.
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17. Apply second coat of finish, and
if necessary a 3rd top coat.
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18. Do a final inspection of everything.
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